Item 1911

DESIGN: Electrotor-SloMo ~ Special Tool - Test Stand - Dynamometer I

Needed;

  • Make required attachment components and attach brake.
  • Get ammeter working.

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Then

  1. Rewiring of motor(s)
  2. Batteries - more and bigger
  3. Magnets - replace
  4. Strengthen motor and test stand
  5. Controller(s)

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It will be a problem to assemble and disassemble the rotor and stator after the more powerful magnets are installed.

The above is somewhat determined on which direction each of us is going in.

Picture:

Notes:

Test Bed Requirements:

 

--------- September 10, 2010 --------

 

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The following information is from the manual for the controller that we have, This manual can be found at http://www.newkellycontroller.com/mot/downloads/KellyKBSUserManual.pdf.

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2.1 General functions, On page #2;

14/ Current meter to display both drive and regen current. Save shunt!

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Female Connector Pin Definition, On page #8;

(8) Meter: Current meter, <200mA. Dark Blue

(4) 5V: 5V supply output, <40mA. Orange

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3.2.2.2 Optional wiring of KBS controller, On page #10;

The output signal of the pin is for 5V current meter.

There is a drawing [figure 4] of the meter in here

Figure 4: wiring of current meter pin

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It appears that the initial wires that were attached to the Current Meter were correct. The Dark Blue wire from the meter is currently in the correct connector position (8). The Orange wire from the meter should be spliced to wire (4), between the connector and the Control Box.

I think that this orange wire (4) is just a 5V supply; to the three potentiometers; and now to the ammeter.

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Thermistor:

WE want 2 only 25mm pillow block bearings and 1 only bearing to go between the stator and the rotor, which also requires a 25mm ID.

The Maytag exploded view does not show the bearing.

The two pages that came with the motor call up the three following bearing numbers; 6005 RZ bearing, 4-bolt flange (SF205), and 25mm 4 bolt UF2o5 bearing.

Search on 'bearing 205'

S6205-2RS Stainless Steel Bearing 25x52x15:Sealed

25mm Pillow Block Bearing SKU: UCP205-25MM

 The screws or bolts that go through the stainless steel rings are;- "Screw, 1/4-20 x .968 (sold individually, 4 recommended) (Screw, 1/4-20 x .968 (4))"

Power Supply:

Need fuse and main switch for batteries.

Using Household Current for One Principal Assembly ~ Consideration:

How many amps does a basic household circuit have?

the average house used to have a 60 amp service, but nowadays most are biult with a 100 amp service

volts times amps equals watts
so with a 100 amp service, you could run 12000 watts

most curcuits are 15 or 20 amps
you can by the size wire, if it has #14 its good for 15 amps---if it has #12 it's good for 20 amps

Re: DC to AC power conversion formula

Reading between the lines, the question seems to be, "How much alternating current at 240V is required to operate a 40A, 48Vdc telephone power supply?"

If that is the case and assuming 75% efficiency,

Irms = 40Adc x 48Vdc/(240Vrms x 0.75) = 11A
Irms = 70Adc x 144Vdc/(240Vrms x 0.75) = 56A For one 10Kw motor.
Irms = 70Adc x 144Vdc/(120Vrms x 0.75) = 122A For one 10Kw motor.

Sounds like a 20A, 240V circuit to me.
Sounds like a 56A, 240V circuit to me. For one 10Kw motor.
Sounds like a 122A, 120V circuit to me.
For one 10Kw motor.

Using an Onboard Genset for Remote Piloting and Testing (UAV) ~ Consideration:

DC Genset:

Pulse Width Modulation Meter:

Wires:

 Calculations:

Related Information:

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Last Revised: October 31, 2011